A bracing desert sun welcomed us on the Sharm el-Sheikh tarmac as we offboarded the plane against the backdrop of the sandy Sinai mountains. Inside the airport, walls were adorned with the logo of the 27th United Nations Climate Convention (COP27): a blue and yellow depiction of sun rays extending over the horizon, meant to symbolize the renewal of hope for a better world. Delegates were greeted with signs in Arabic, Russian, and English. A huddle of taxi drivers eagerly called out to us.

Outside the event space at COP27.

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